Formerly, this village was the center of Russian Old Believers. Today, it is home to no more than 150 villagers. They cherish their traditions and language, but, as they like to joke, their “youngest bridegroom is past 60.” In the summertime, children come to stay occasionally, but in the wintertime the place looks deserted. We drove only 46 kilometers from Chernivtsi, when we approached Bila Krynytsia in Hlybotsky district of Chernivtsi oblast, so close this unusual world of people is, whose faith determines their lifestyle and who own the unparalleled Cathedral of the Assumption, a miniature replica of the Cathedral of St. Basil the Blessed in Moscow’s Red Square. Its domes with golden crosses towering above the village can be seen from a distance. This cathedral is the calling card of the village known the worldover but almost forgotten in Ukraine.
Yeremiy Deyev, a retired officer, native of Bila Krynytsia, agreed to tell us about the village — its history, churches, and people, while priest Andronik Kalynovych let us into the cathedral to satisfy our interest in its alleged riches. One condition for women was to wear a head covering in the church, as the Old Believers uphold time-honored traditions.
Although lavish and grand on the outside, the interior of the church is a contrast with its whitewashed walls. The normal decoration of Biblical scenes is absent from the walls. Almost at the entrance there are photographs of the Ovsiyannikovy merchants, whom the villagers credit with building the cathedral in 1908. They are remembered and honored here. The first thing to catch the eye are unique icons dating from the 18th century, the grand iconostasis by icon painters from Suzdal, Moscow, and Novgorod. “This is the Kormchaya Kniga [the Slavonic translation of Byzantine Nomocanon — Ed. ]. It is almost 700 years old,” says Andronik Kalynovych, carefully leafing through the sizable book. This is the oldest yet not the only book of its kind in the church. “It contains information about each day and saint.”
By all accounts, these riches are worthy of prestigious museums, and they should be preserved here for posterity. The cathedral should be open for tourists and pilgrims, but so far there are no funds to renovate the church. “At one time we got enough money to restore the domes and crosses. But the renovation was not completed. And now the walls have gone all moldy. It will cost a fortune to get rid of the mold and renovate everything,” the priest complains. Local authorities have allocated some funds for the church and opened a special account for donations, but this is not enough. The locals put their hopes in their fellow believers from overseas with whom they maintain long-standing relations. From the priest we heard many a “when I came from America.” Thus we are waiting for the West to help us, while dampness and mold are eating away at unique antiques and cultural history. What is left today has been preserved by these men with gray beards and wise eyes.
“During the divine liturgy women can stand only behind men, with only a few highly respected ones allowed to the front,” one of the men said. Some feminist feelings stirred in me as I heard this. But to my emphatic “so this is patriarchate after all,” the old man answered with a condescending smile: “Child, what patriarchate are you talking about? Love rules here!” In an attempt to find out whether any rumors about their way of life are true, I asked whether mixed marriages were prohibited. They confirmed that the church marries only those who are baptized according to the Old Believers’ rite. If someone does not want to convert, the church does not acknowledge their marriage, even if they go through the proper civil registration.
On the whole, Old Believers celebrate 12 major holidays and observe all fasts. But they enjoy good meals on Shrove Tuesday. As for other limitations, “At one time it was considered a sin to wear nice clothes to church. Our fellow believes in America, for instance, still uphold this tradition,” says Yeremiy Deyev. “Women put on humble dark dresses when they go to church there. Here women are all decked out in their Sunday best.” Men still like long beards, but are not against blue jeans.
We ascend the narrow spiral staircase to the belfry. The view opening up from the tower gives an unsurpassed feeling of freedom. We catch a glimpse of the nearby Romanian settlement, also inhabited by Old Believers. Above our heads hang the bells which were once saved by the villagers. This is one of many legends that live on in the village. These old stories and the church atmosphere make one feel calm and tranquil, and a breath of fresh tangy air makes one leave all his problems behind.
The words of the wise man at parting linger in mind: “Look for your pearl in everything. It is there, one simply needs to look better. As the Bible says, ‘Seek and you will find; knock and the doors will be open unto you.’”
