It is very easy to impose something on a hard-hearted society with an inferiority complex and syndrome of lost values, be it political technology myths, aesthetic (or anti-aesthetic) tastes, or harmful outlook habits. In such a society the circulation of ideas, innovative images and non-primitive senses is hardly felt. It neither knows nor understands itself and in most cases is not able of reproducing its world outlook experiences (including for fashion). For the most part, the Ukrainian society is a consumer of trends, not a producer, which is only natural.
The Ukrainian Fashion Week (UFW) has many times invited foreign experts to Kyiv, gradually moving Ukrainian fashion in a Western direction. But this was an acute therapy rather than a systemic work. However, recently the UFW has decided to take up the “external” vector in a more serious way, and invited an experienced fashion manager Maurizio ASCHERO take the post of UFW director for development of international relations.
Although in his interview to The Day Maurizio assures us that one should not await grandiose feats or revolutions from him, he already has achieved a certain success. It was largely owing to his efforts that the brand of the renowned designer Lilia Pustovit L.P. by POUSTOVIT has been launched and is being successfully sold in the Milan boutique Spiga2, which is a property of the cult duo of designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana.
This is a new step towards a world of different values. Once again it was made not owing to, but in spite of our politicians. But let’s leave political issues aside and speak about fashion as well as civic society, talented Ukrainians and future New Renaissance.
Maurizio, you have worked in fashion management in Italy, Russia and Kazakhstan. At the moment you are working in Ukraine. Apparently, the rules in Italian fashion are essentially different from those in the post-Soviet space. What is your opinion about this region, in terms of fashion?
“In terms of fashion this region has a great potential. Here one could create something much greater than what we have at the moment. Unfortunately, the post-Soviet situation does not allow us to develop fashion to full potential. And here lies a great paradox, because before the Soviet Union, Ukraine, like Russia, was quite advanced in terms of fashion and culture.
“One of the main problems is that fashion is not perceived as business in Ukraine. But nobody has started to develop the fashion industry. Nobody is ready to see that fashion means tens, thousands of people — both producing clothes, and wearing the attire. A total of 46 million people reside in Ukraine. They should wear something. Clothes producers are needed for this. Since Ukraine hardly has any, low-quality goods are imported from China and India. VIP-clients buy high-quality goods, but those are imported as well. As a result vast amounts of money go abroad.
“For example, in Italy fashion is all business. Besides Versace and Gucci, there are 50,000 small firms, with each of them employing 3,000-4,000 people. They produce goods that are bought by Italians.”
Apparently, in Italy fashion is not only a business, but a national trait, an entire cultural layer. Does Ukrainian fashion have such potential? As head of the Ukrainian Fashion Week responsible for international development, please, how do you think the Ukrainian fashion should position itself, and how it should develop?
“I will tell you right away that you should not await grandiose feats from me. I cannot create a revolution in Ukrainian design or build plants. I’m not God, just a little man, who is knowledgeable in the fashion business. Based on this, I see my task in what concerns Ukrainian fashion in telling the world about its existence, first and foremost. I will bring to Ukraine authoritative international experts, buyers, journalists, and make a hint at whom they should pay attention to. For hardly anyone knows anything about Ukrainian designers, and it is hard to promote yourself in Europe on your own.
“But here we face the problem of investments, sponsors who should be involved in developing the Ukrainian fashion industry. You should build a system. And you should start from making the world know that Ukraine has good designers. If they will be interesting, foreign investors will come. Anyway, inside the country there should be people to help develop the fashion business.”
Do you mean the national business?
“Yes.”
Your professional interest leads you to frequently communicate with fashion reps. Do you consider them mature enough to invest in the business?
“Frankly speaking, hardly so.”
You criticize the Ukrainian Fashion Week for not performing its functions as a part of the fashion industry — being a high-society event for “internal usage” instead. In some ways Ukraine still has a backward mentally, and not only in fashion. In your opinion, is integration with Europe possible through fashion?
“Integration should take place via a comprehensive system of cultural exchange, including fashion. This is a very complicated process. I don’t want to criticize anyone in this country, but I cannot get it, why none of those, on whom law-making depends, start this process. New legislation, customs, a new system — integration is impossible without these things.
“But gradually it is taking place, owing to, among other things, Ukrainian designers who step by step, despite difficulties, enter the global arena. For example. Lilia Pustovit or Fedir Vozianov.”
By the way, how do you assess Ukrainian designers, representatives of the middle and younger generation?
“The middle generation has very good designers. Besides, I can see many people with great prospects and good ideas, who have not yet created a systemic business, but possess all the things needed for this: enthusiasm, talent, ambitions. In my opinion, this is the very reason why the Ukrainian Fashion Week plays such an important role, giving them chance to show themselves, so that other people help them exploit their talent. My role is to make sure such people come to the Fashion Week. I am sure that there will be many people for their appreciation.
“As for the new generation of designers, they will grow more and more interesting in the future. The world is open for them, and possibilities for communication with other continents are practically unlimited. The generation that was born after the Soviet Union collapsed will develop very fast. However there is a risk that these young people will leave Ukraine for countries that offer more possibilities for development and self-realization.”
But they have saturated markets, and here you can become a “star.”
“There is no chance of becoming a star here, because this place lacks a system that would allow a designer to produce and sell clothes freely. Here is the problem.”
You have been working in Ukraine for nearly eight years. As you have worked in the sphere of fashion, you met mostly a limited circle of people, whose lifestyle and way of thinking you, as a rule, criticize unmercifully, but justly. Do you know a different kind of Ukraine?
“Unfortunately, I don’t know Ukrainian history and the country too well. But I can say that a different kind of Ukraine is the people who work for their families, the development of their small businesses, who grow with each passing year. They will never be part of the government, but it is they whom I respect very much. I think that you should count on these people, as well as on the young Ukraine, the new generation. You have lots of young people, who think and work 10 times faster than those in Italy, and in Europe on the whole. We have already established a lifestyle that is focused mainly on marketing and seeking comfort.
“It seems to me that the ‘bourgeoisie’ of the senior generation will save nobody and nothing in this country; only themselves, and that is doubtful. New people who study and master the material faster, who are able to assess what is really taking place in the country — they will save Ukraine, in 10 or 15 years, no sooner.”
We are speaking about the civic society. In your opinion, is it connected with fashion?
“Fashion is a kind of mirror which reflects both those who create and those who wear clothes. Undoubtedly, the Ukrainian society will change with time, and Ukrainian designers will change as well. It will take time, because this process is very long.
“At the moment our ‘civic society’ looks exclusively at money. But the new generation is quite knowledgeable; it is better developed in terms of culture. Step by step, Ukraine may become a country that won’t be just a consumer of world trends, but will itself ‘produce’ trends. I am sure that in 10-15 years we will see many Ukrainians and Russians whose collections will be well sold in Europe.”
In your blog on one of Ukrainian websites you mention the Eastern space, specifically China and India, which has attained success of late in terms of fashion. Looking at the overall picture of the fashion world, what is the situation now? Where are China and India? What are their advantages?
“It is common knowledge that in this country it is much cheaper to manufacture clothes. For 20 years now China has been a kind of playground for producing European fashion. But now this country is moving to a qualitatively new level, establishing its own brands of haute couture. This country already has factories, fabrics, paints, and technologies. What they need now is designers and a certain system, which China will be able to launch without any particular difficulties. Soon Milan will see its first shop of Chinese haute couture. There will be very expensive clothes made of high-quality materials with a very nice design. A fresh new Chinese line.”
What will be the face of new Chinese fashion? Is this a continuation of Chinese culture or something more European?
“It is rather a European interpretation of Chinese culture. The process has already been launched. Paris will follow Milan, then London, then — tens of new firms, which are closely following the first steps of Chinese haute couture and will open their doors for Chinese designers. In some 10-15 years a lot of good Chinese designers will work in Europe, and we will able to buy high-quality Chinese clothes at relatively low prices.”
Many say that Europe is now going through a crisis of values. Do you feel it?
“Yes, absolutely. After World War II the level of life started to rise abruptly, but at the time we did not make enough efforts to strengthen our cultural values. After all, for example, for Italy this resulted in a huge problem with the political elite, I mean Berlusconi and about 20-25 people who are now governing Italy. If we go directly to Milan and talk to a random passer-by, most likely he won’t know anything about culture, history, or music, unlike those who grew up in the 1950s-1960s. This is a huge problem for us. And your problem is that you look at Europe via the eyes of tourists. It seems to you that everything is great there — the sun, the sea, everything is fine with the people eating spaghetti. But it is not quite so. Europe is really going through a crisis of values. And here, in Ukraine, you have a chance to start everything from scratch, raise a new culture, and leap from the post-Soviet state right into the future.”
Judging from some posts on your blog, you view the future as a “New Renaissance.”
“Yes, and the New Renaissance will be very loud. People will understand how good it is to invest in culture. We will stop thinking only about money, and will recall Mozart and Shostakovich. It will be very clean on Kyiv’s streets and ancient buildings will be restored. And a Renaissance always starts with the changes inside every particular person.”
The Day’s FACT FILE
Maurizio Aschero is a managing partner of the company Maas Markets and fashion manager with a 20-year working experience in Europe and CIS countries. Maurizio has worked in Italy, Russia, and Kazakhstan. Now he is working in Ukraine, where he is known for his seven-year cooperation with the Helen Marlen Group. As the development director he has opened 20 stores of leading world brands and has supervised over 100 brands.
