Renowned couturier Serhiy Byzov, one of the cofounders of the Fashion Seasons in Ukraine, hadn’t demonstrated his collections in the Ukrainian pret-в-porter weeks for the last few years, preferring to organize separate shows. And he could afford this. He is so self-sufficient in his creative work, he virtually needs no entourage such as the Fashion Seasons or other in vogue events, participation in which is a matter of honor for many other designers. Both he and the audience know that his every collection is an event in Ukraine’s fashion world. Successful or not, they always puzzle fashion experts who are hard to surprise but, strange as it may seem, even harder not to surprise. One thing is certain: Byzov’s clothes remain topical for many years, and the motifs used in some of his collections are whimsically transformed in the next year’s one.
This year the designer came out with an innovation. For the first time his collection was devoted to a specific person, Jacqueline Kennedy who had been at the peak of her glory long before Byzov’s birth. However, her contribution in world history, particularly the history of fashion, is large enough to use her image as a certain fashion material, a concept from which one can produce virtually everything: the title of a magazine, name of a store, salon, or in this case a Ukrainian designer’s collection. The wife of a famous president and later of almost as famous millionaire, she was a model of the aristocratic lifestyle, fashion, and beauty. Women copied her hairdos, clothes, and her manners. They loved her and they envied her, admiring the ease with which she seemed to achieve everything she was after.
Serhiy Byzov’s collection, consisting of 15 ensembles, was in line with this image: refined, Bohemian, feminine, without a trace of pretentious democratism. A self-made woman of fashion and of taste, who knows her worth and has a high opinion of herself. At present, the designer is in an excellent creative shape, and his celebrated designs look even more attractive and original than ever. The Jacqueline theme was manifest in short tapered pants, classical knee- long skirts, and famous short jackets. All garments kept in black, the collection did not look somber. Black only stressed its chic, adding to Jacqueline’s (or any woman’s) unique style. Byzov played with combinations of cashmere, silk, chiffon, satin, guipure, flannel, and watered silk, although the whole thing seemed akin to rather than in the sixties’ style.
Byzov skillfully incorporated broad sleeves and lace insets in his designs and this had a great effect on the audience. An overalls of woolen flannel with a lace back stood out among the rest. Luxury jewels (courtesy of Z-77 Studio) certainly complimented the collection, although quite frankly, it could have easily done without any; it interesting enough by itself.
In general, the collection looked very “adult.” A teenage girl wouldn’t wear such clothes. Iryna Diudenko voiced the majority’s opinion (personally the thought the collection was great!): “I enjoyed being taken back into the atmosphere of the sixties’. I am glad Serhiy focused on the Jacqueline Kennedy phenomenon. Still, I wouldn’t wear such clothes, because I like to look younger. I prefer a more democratic style.”
Serhiy Byzov’s Fashion House is marking its tenth anniversary this year. Needless to say, this brand has become one of the most popular in Ukraine’s world of fashion. Byzov does not rest on his laurels, is always looking for ways leading to perfection. Many in the audience were under the impression that the collection was the best the fashion designer had accomplished in the past several years, which makes one hopeful. Serhiy Byzov might spot somebody else’s photo (as was the case with Jackie’s) and get inspired to produce another even more dazzling collection.
