By old tradition, when the spring meets summer, the Hutsuls (Carpathian Mountain highlanders — Ed.) noisily celebrate the beginning of a new work season: they see off shepherds and their flocks to the polonyny, the mountain pastures. This year has seen the fortieth event of this kind, known in Putyla district, Chernivtsi oblast, as going to the polonyny.
With sheep providing the daily bread for more than one family in this mountainous district, the beginning of a high-hill summer working season is considered and heartily observed as a common feast. At daybreak, Putyla’s district center stadium began to draw local residents and visitors. This place usually attracts residents of Bukovyna, the adjacent oblasts, as well as folklore enthusiasts from Kyiv and Lviv. An especially cordial welcome is given to foreigners born here.
Fiery dances, resonant songs, and country music announced throughout the Carpathians that the Hutsuls are in a festive mood. The feast culminated in the symbolic lighting of a vatra (bonfire). A huge heap of brushwood was immediately set ablaze, and the tongues of flame seemed to soar. The shepherds then were to take the charred wood to the mountains to warm them at night and drive away the wild beasts and evil spirits.
According hoary tradition, the shepherds elect a vatah (host of the feast). He must be a well-known and venerated gazda (farmer), who is to guide the shepherds through their high pastures; his experience and skill guarantee a successful summer. Meanwhile, wearing a folk costume and carrying a lighted torch, he rides out on a horse adorned with tassels, ribbons, and flowers to see the festive crowd. Soon, his colleagues join him, and they all do what they were supposed to — go to the high pasture.
Meanwhile, the stadium and the nearby park fill with the delicious aroma of a just-cooked millet meal, sheep’s milk cheese, and roast meat. All this is done before your very eyes. Expert hands cook mamalyga (thick cornmeal soup) in large caldrons. They must strictly follow the recipe: it is an art to stir it well and add all the required spices. Then it is served on small wooden planks and cut with a thread into small pieces, so everybody can have a taste. Long tables were laid at the stadium just in the open, and all those who wish can relish this ethnic dish and wash it down with huslianka, a beverage tasting like yogurt, although the Hutsuls themselves only laugh at this definition. They welcome you from the bottom of their hearts. Those wishing to ride horseback could do so. Even the local horses seemed to show condescension toward the guests and courageously tolerated their noisy riders: some for the very first time. And those who lacked the courage to mount a horse could ride in richly ornamented carriages.
